All articles by Yazzi Gokcemen for The Standard can be found online here
She contributed to the publication during SS24 fashion month in September 2023.
See Freddie Mercury and Elton John’s jeans at a Queer Denim Exhibition
The Best Street Style at London Fashion Week SS24
Trenches, box bags and lace socks: the best of Paris Fashion Week’s street style
Milan Fashion Week: Kendall Jenner, Kate Moss and Ryan Gosling lead the front row
6 October 2023
See Freddie Mercury and Elton John’s jeans at a Queer Denim Exhibition
This small but punchy exhibition offers a quick-fire history of Levi’s place within the LGBTQ+ community.
A treasure trove of gay denim has found its way to Kings Cross, where a concise but compelling exhibition touches on Levi’s history within the queer community. Last week, during the opening party at Queer Britain, the UK’s first and only LGBTQ+ museum, the mood was celebratory. A new gallery wing was unveiled, and important pieces from the Levi’s archive had been decanted into the intimate setting.
Every guest — including Heartstopper’s Bel Priestley and presenter Miss Jason — was clad head-to-toe in denim, and yet no one appeared to be matching. This was an ode in itself to the exhibition’s intent: to prove a knocked-up pair of 501’s remain a canvas for self-expression.
Open until October 13, From the Levis Archive: Icons in Denim — a Queer Perspective, has on show a handful of significant garments; among them a jacket designed for (and signed by) Sir Elton John; the jeans and t-shirt worn by Jake Gyllenhall in the 2005, Oscar-winning film, Brokeback Mountain; and a pair owned by Queen’s frontman Freddie Mercury.
You could shrug off some fashion brands’ LGBTQ+ activations as pinkwashing, but Levi’s has occupied a specific significance amongst the community for decades. Tracey Panek, curator of the exhibition and a historian at Levi’s, explains this originated in San Francisco - the birthplace of the denim brand - in the 1950s, when it had become something of a safe haven for the gay community. “And what were they wearing? The 501. Both gender-ambiguous and hyper-masculine, they were a quiet tool for rebellion. It wasn’t just clothing, but an important signifier.”
In 1977, San Francisco’s queer community was strong enough to elect California’s first openly gay public official, Harvey Milk. Tragically, Milk was shot for supporting a bill to ban discrimination on the basis of sexual orientation; his pair of 501 jeans are a poignant feature of this retrospective.
Also on display, and making an overt political statement, is the Levi’s Protest Jacket — a piece customised by American artist Serge Gay Jr amidst 2020’s Black Lives Matter movement. The patchwork trucker jacket, titled ‘Black Movement’, holds recognisable symbols from the Civil Rights and BLM movements, as well as Serge Gay’s own motifs expressing his concerns and proud identity as a Black gay transgender man.
Joseph Galliano-Doig, co-founder of Queer Britain, expresses his gratitude to Levi’s who have been a key sponsor of the museum that first opened in May 2022. “I was running around campaigning with a piece of paper when they said ‘We want to see this happen', they’ve stayed true allies our whole time,” he says. More help is needed, however.
“We currently have a multi-year lease at our Granary Square location and are seeing it as our meanwhile home,” Galliano-Doig says. “We have the aim of continuing to grow and eventually moving to a forever home.” There is no doubt, with more space, this would be a great asset to London.
From the Levi’s archives: Icons in Denim - a Queer Perspective is open now until October 13th at the Queer Britain Museum, Kings Cross
Article published online at standard.co.uk
21 September 2023
The best Street Style at London Fashion Week SS24
Chopova Lowena skirts, Ancuta Sarca point-toe boots and romantic silhouettes reminiscent of Simone Rocha have set the tone of LFW street-style.
A particularly warm September welcomed the spring summer 24 shows to London last week, and the street style cognoscenti have taken full advantage of the balmy weather. Whilst A-listers are mostly chauffeured between their invite-only shows and parties, innovative style peacocks are providing a spectacle and photo opportunities in the city streets where everyone’s invited.
Sunday’s torrential downpour aside, London Fashion Week has felt like one big summer garden party; shows have taken place beside the Barbican’s water fountains (Roksanda), among the flowerbeds of St Cyprian’s Church courtyard (Mithridate) and under the glass dome of The Royal Horticultural Halls (Paul Costelloe). We’ve spied whimsical one-pieces and vibrant tartans, while neon green and no-explanation-needed-pink have also been popular choices for those trying to grab photographers’ attention.
Skirts won over trousers, with kilts and pleats enjoying a moment — the result of the growing appeal of Chopova Lowena, who proved again in their SS24 showcase that tartan can never stop being reinvented. To keep cool, others in the capital are going for micro-minis, paired with collared shirts or high necks.
Whilst power-walking is inevitable for fashionably late show-goers, they are nonetheless ditching trainers and laces, opting instead for kitten heels and buckles. The ballet pump frenzy, courtesy of Miu Miu, is not over yet, but as the weather turns, statement boots join the parade. Another hit are Ancuta Sarca’s pointed-toe heels, crafted from trainers and presented during fashion week on Friday.
Others had a love affair with mesh, ruffles and ruching, especially apparent on Sunday as fans flocked to the English National Ballet for Simone Rocha’s show. This romantic aesthetic continued in the queues of off-schedule shows by burgeoning London designers, Elisa Trombatore (Dreaming Eli) and Taylor-Bea Gordon (T-Label). Pearls at these events were de rigueur.
And on Monday afternoon Highbury Fields stole the street-style spotlight as celebrities and fashion fanatics crowded for Burberry’s runway – the second since Daniel Lee took the helm. Fans could be seen embracing the heritage label’s fresh colour palette; beige was barely visible in the sea of vibrant, mostly electric-blue, checks. The occasion’s forecast was unpredictable in true British style, helping one garment prove its worth: the trench coat is sticking around for Autumn.
Article published online at standard.co.uk
28 September 2023
Trenches, box bags and lace socks: the best of Paris Fashion Week’s street style
Eyes are on Paris, as the city serves up the last helpings of September fashion month street style.
It’s the birthplace of effortless chic, not to mention couture — so it should come as no surprise that the street style flooding the city during fashion week is peppered with top styling tricks and a stellar inspiration for the season ahead.
Emerging on a sunny Monday for the first day of show-hopping, the fashion pack leant into coordinating separates; cropped blazers with matching skirts or sophisticated-knitted two-pieces have proved the go-to quick fix for easy put-togetherness.
And the statement bags have been drafted in for added pizzazz. Mini box bags — the hard-case kind, which could easily double up as decorative ornaments — have been frequently spotted, and also popped up on Acne Studios’ catwalk on Wednesday. Elsewhere, Maria Grazia-Chiuri’s Dior bags — be they the Mini Lady Dior or new riffs of Dior’s sought-after saddle — are as popular as ever.
And, as at Milan’s fashion week, editors and influencers alike continue to prove their dedication to the trench; oversized variations are sweeping the streets, proving themselves a versatile autumn-wardrobe must-have once again. The preferred colour is safari green which, coincidentally, mirrored the palette of Saint Laurent’s SS24 collection on Tuesday evening.
In line with Paris’ unspoken street style code, functional outerwear is made a touch more chic thanks to dainty footwear— namely the multi-strap pumps and kitten heels which have dominated this fashion month’s shoe scene. Thankfully, the Parisians are proving that these skin-baring (and blister-causing) shoes look great with socks — especially lace-trimmed ones.
Article published online at standard.co.uk
25 September 2023
Milan Fashion Week: Kendall Jenner, Kate Moss and Ryan Gosling lead the front row
From Fendi’s veritable supermodel fest, Gucci’s Hollywood inavsion and Erykah Badu at Bottega Veneta — here are the top famous faces spotted in Milan this season.
Milan Fashion Week began with a very well-dressed bang last Wednesday, when Fendi’s front row called for paparazzi flashbulbs.
Supermodels Kate Moss (attending with boyfriend Nikolai von Bismarck), Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Winnie Harlow and Cara Delevingne were all spotted supporting creative director Kim Jones, while actresses Christina Ricci, Gwendoline Christie and Demi Moore made up the rest of the very A-list front bench. Other guests included Munroe Bergdorf, who is among those topping the front row sightings leaderboard this fashion month.
Before the evening’s antics, an elegant daytime affair came by way of Alberta Ferretti’s catwalk, staged in a castle. Among the guests were Ed Westwick, Tamara Kalinic and Anna Wintour, while on the runway Irina Shayk turned heads.
At 9pm, came Diesel’s mega-show — eight hours of runway and raving. Despite the pouring rain, almost all of the 7,000 invited showed up. Lucky winners of creative director Glenn Martens’ raffle accounted for 6,000 of the guests, while Gen-Z favourites made up many of the famous faces: Jaden Smith, Tommy Cash, and Charlie XCX, as well as Italian footballer Moise Kean, all turned up ready to rave in the rain.
Day two was a red carpet-worthy affair, as film stars (with newfound free time, due to the ongoing SAG-AFTRA strikes) joined fashion devotees at Prada. Scarlett Johansson, Emma Watson, Benedict Cumberbatch and director Wes Anderson made for new faces on this season’s frow circuit. Kylie Jenner also made a surprise appearance; sadly Timothée Chalamet was not in tow, but she enjoyed a laugh with her seat-mate Rosalía. Later, American rapper Saint Jhn and actress-turned-beauty entrepreneur Heart Evangelista were spotted in the audience at Moschino’s 40th anniversary showcase.
There was much anticipation for the Gucci show on Friday, and new creative director Sabato de Sarno drew a crowd of Hollywood favourites. Paul Mescal, Julia Garner and Jessica Chastain were pictured wearing matching sunglasses, while Ryan Gosling and Julia Roberts arrived together. Rumoured couple Kendall Jenner and Bad Bunny also garnered plenty of attention.
Saturday’s first flurry of celebrities emerged for Dolce & Gabbana, among them were Kylie Jenner (albeit a rumoured 52 minutes late), actresses Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Halle Bailey, and Maya Jama, the Love Island presenter who was named a face of the brand earlier this year.
Rounding off a starry season was Bottega Veneta, on Saturday, who drew music industry sensations Erykah Badu and Peggy Gou, and The White Lotus season two cast members Will Sharpe and Megahnn Fahy, as well as Giorgio Armani, on Sunday, who made sure a week of Italian fashion went out with a bang for his guests including Lily Allen and Cate Blanchett.
From Fendi’s veritable supermodel fest, Gucci’s Hollywood inavsion and Erykah Badu at Bottega Veneta — here are the top famous faces spotted in Milan this season.
Milan Fashion Week began with a very well-dressed bang last Wednesday, when Fendi’s front row called for paparazzi flashbulbs.Supermodels Kate Moss (attending with boyfriend Nikolai von Bismarck), Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Winnie Harlow and Cara Delevingne were all spotted supporting creative director Kim Jones, while actresses Christina Ricci, Gwendoline Christie and Demi Moore made up the rest of the very A-list front bench. Other guests included Munroe Bergdorf, who is among those topping the front row sightings leaderboard this fashion month.
Before the evening’s antics, an elegant daytime affair came by way of Alberta Ferretti’s catwalk, staged in a castle. Among the guests were Ed Westwick, Tamara Kalinic and Anna Wintour, while on the runway Irina Shayk turned heads.
At 9pm, came Diesel’s mega-show — eight hours of runway and raving. Despite the pouring rain, almost all of the 7,000 invited showed up. Lucky winners of creative director Glenn Martens’ raffle accounted for 6,000 of the guests, while Gen-Z favourites made up many of the famous faces: Jaden Smith, Tommy Cash, and Charlie XCX, as well as Italian footballer Moise Kean, all turned up ready to rave in the rain.
Day two was a red carpet-worthy affair, as film stars (with newfound free time, due to the ongoing SAG-AFTRA strikes) joined fashion devotees at Prada. Scarlett Johansson, Emma Watson, Benedict Cumberbatch and director Wes Anderson made for new faces on this season’s frow circuit. Kylie Jenner also made a surprise appearance; sadly Timothée Chalamet was not in tow, but she enjoyed a laugh with her seat-mate Rosalía. Later, American rapper Saint Jhn and actress-turned-beauty entrepreneur Heart Evangelista were spotted in the audience at Moschino’s 40th anniversary showcase.
There was much anticipation for the Gucci show on Friday, and new creative director Sabato de Sarno drew a crowd of Hollywood favourites. Paul Mescal, Julia Garner and Jessica Chastain were pictured wearing matching sunglasses, while Ryan Gosling and Julia Roberts arrived together. Rumoured couple Kendall Jenner and Bad Bunny also garnered plenty of attention.
Saturday’s first flurry of celebrities emerged for Dolce & Gabbana, among them were Kylie Jenner (albeit a rumoured 52 minutes late), actresses Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Halle Bailey, and Maya Jama, the Love Island presenter who was named a face of the brand earlier this year.
Rounding off a starry season was Bottega Veneta, on Saturday, who drew music industry sensations Erykah Badu and Peggy Gou, and The White Lotus season two cast members Will Sharpe and Megahnn Fahy, as well as Giorgio Armani, on Sunday, who made sure a week of Italian fashion went out with a bang for his guests including Lily Allen and Cate Blanchett.